One such installation technique is the so called dot and dab installation method that is applied to almost any kind of wall boards, including plasterboards , plasterboards with insulation like these insulated plasterboards and finally all types of rigid insulation boards such as PIR, PUR and phenolic boards.
Now, gather all the necessary tools such as a pencil, a trowel, water and mixing buckets, tape measure, a straightedge and materials the chosen wall board, appropriate adhesive, some water, mechanical fixings and necessary and you can commence your dot and dab wall board installation project.
Finally, note that certain boards will also require installing temporary and permanent mechanical fixings that will hold the board in place, so always read the given guidelines carefully and consult the manufacturer if in doubt. For more information about using the dot and dab method to install wall insulation boards or plasterboards, please read the product specifications and follow manufacturers instructions.
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You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Dot n dab insulated plaster board. Thread starter loky11 Start date Feb 22, Total: members: 12, guests: Status Not open for further replies. Hi guys, when dot n dabbing insulated plasterboard do you guys plug and screw after? TonyM Private Member. I got some metal hammer fixing last time.
Cheap and really solid. The slab is mm thick. The SE requested very heavy duty foundations, part of this is maybe due to the weight of the upper floors which are constructed from mm thick hollowcore concrete planks. I did discuss using an insulated raft instead as this kind of slab does have cold bridges.
But the general view I got from everyone involved was that the cold bridges were too small to care and that ground conditions made an insulated raft difficult and more expensive. Nice, no air leakage, depends on how well insulated the building is as to how bad the thermal bridges are. On my retrofits another 3 in the bag this week I always dab as normal but then go around the foot and head with high expansion foam, and loads of it. Thought I'd replied to this, sorry.
I drill holes the same size as the foam nozzle, " apart, and pump in the foam that way. I get some bits of gaffa tape to cover the holes immediately after withdrawing the foam gun to stop the foam from spewing back out and messing the board up.
After 20 mins or so, I remove the tape and clean off any foam that's proud, then just scrim prior to plastering or leave if your putting coving up afterwards.
Nickfromwales if you're putting coving up does it not make sense just to leave a gap at the top and fill it..? Suppose low expansion would be key to it working well. Wouldn't want to come back to a wall for all the boards to be 10mm out at the top!
All depends if that means a shed load of filling. The bigger the gap the more filling you'll have to do, plus the foam is a bit uncontrolled if it's open to the room.
Remember that coving is 80mm or so from lip to internal corner and 30odd mm of that is for the adhesive to land so you've got 50mm to play with. I don't like the plasterer having to start or finish a set that close to where it's visible as they always get a bit of a bell at the top and bottom of the set.
Plasterers also hate the foam as if they catch it with the trowel it gets into the mix and upsets them. The less foam on display the less it needs cutting back and the less loose bits to get in the plaster. Also, sometimes on a retrofit I've had to get the walls on prior to the ceilings going up, just to get things on and drying if we can't get the ceiling a up for any reason, so the foam option really does help out there.
Yes, but there are dabbers, and then there are guys who have seen it done and have a go Prudence, and attention to detail are your friend, but a guy getting paid on meterage will always want to compromise that for a buck I've found. When the dab has gone off the boards won't move one bit, if dabbed properly.
I use high expansion foam at frequent intervals to ensure the gaps are filled. LE foam hardly expands at all so I don't recommend it for this tbh. Just don't go mad with it. On the outside walls they have used dot and dab to attach insulated plasterboard to our Porotherm blocks and there are no issues there. But the wall between our gym and lounge is Porotherm block with dot and dab plasterboard on each side.
I created another thread where I noted that the door frames were not filled all the way round and I though this was letting noise through the wall.
I have filled around the facings and it is maybe slightly better. But still sometimes if you are in the lounge and someone is talking or playing music in the gym it barely sounds like there is a wall between you at all.
Searching on Google I found that dot and dab is actually really bad for noise as it creates a solid path for noise to travel in the wall and a small air space to amplify it. Some people suggested that a wall will actually be less noisy with no plasterboard on it at all.
I had assumed a block wall with a layer of plasterboard on each side would be better than a plasterboard wall from a sound proofing perspective. Luckily this is the only sold partition in the house constructed this way without a door in it, so it is by far the most noticeable. I am considering should I have the plasterboard removed and have the wall plastered instead or is there an easier solution?
There are also some pipes through the wall above the ceiling and there are sockets in the plasterboard on each side creating further noise paths. But when I try and listen it sounds like the noise is coming straight through the wall not in any localised spot.
Anyway let this be a warning that dot and dab is an quick and easy way to plasterboard a wall but bad from the perspective of soundproofing. Yes, dead naff. It causes a lot of thermal bypass if outdoor air can get in between the walls and linings. Draughts come out everywhere, you loose the thermal buffering of the masonry. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy! Already have an account?
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